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Barbarian Days

William Finnegan
WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
Autor: Finnegan, William
EAN: 9781472151391
Sprache: Englisch
Seitenzahl: 464
Produktart: kartoniert, broschiert
Verlag: Little, Brown Book Group
Veröffentlichungsdatum: 21.08.2015
Untertitel: A Surfing Life, Ausgezeichnet: Pulitzer Prize for Biography 2016, Nominiert: Cross Sports Book Awards General Outstanding Sports Writing 2016
Schlagworte: Pulitzer Prize for Biography Windsurfing/Segelsurfing/Brettsegeln
Größe: 155 × 235